Porto, Portugal

We arrived on Saturday to Portugal after an uneventful flight to Porto (3 hours, 50 euro each). The flight was made infinitely better by the British/Dutch family in the row behind us with their 7 and 9 year old kids who helped entertain Jude when he got sick of the ipad. We were worried about Maeve on the flight having just found out she had a mild ear infection two days prior, but apart from fussing out of tiredness, she didn't seem bothered.

Porto was on our list in part for being the gateway to the Duoro wine region. A friend had traveled there a few years back and her pictures of the scenery were stunning. We only alloated 2 days in Porto before continuing onto Lisbon so we didn't make it out to that region, but are keeping it on our list for a future trip!

Always optimistic about the travels with the kiddos... 

Porto from our portal

We had a little time our first evening to walk around our neighborhood in search of a grocery store. We were struck by the hills, the grittiness, the tilemwork on buildings and the vibrancy of the city. Porto has not been extensively restored like many of the other European cities we have visited, but I liked it for that. It felt more real and the pop of color of the crumbling tiles were always a delight to see.

Jude must be wondering what these hills are all about!

Well we walked up hills and down hills, asked for directions and walked some more, but could not find a single grocery store! Lots of hip restaurants and bars, though. Maeve fell asleep in the stroller and Jude fell asleep in Pete's arms! Time to call it a day!

Our AirBnB host gave us a tip for a nice walking tour of Porto, which we followed the next day. We walked from our apartment to the Sao Bento train station, which is filled with the characteristic azulejos (tiles).

Outside the train station

Camera happy

We were pretty happy to have some warm sunshine on our faces! 

We checked out the Porto Cathedral where a Sunday morning mass was going on, scoped the views and then headed for the Ponte Luis I bridge, which was inspired by the Eiffel tower.

Later in the day we made it to Graham's- The Port distillery seen across the river in this photo.

There were great views from the bridge down to the red roofed buildings in the Vila Nova de Gaia district. This is where the Port distilleries are located, most with British names, which Pete tells me was from the strong Portuguese/British alliance. On the far side of the bridge was the entrance to an arial tramway that we took down to the waterfront. Along the way, we spied a playground along the promenade. Score!

Another one for the "Playgrounds of Europe" scrapbook

Graham's was located up a very steep hill and further from the other Port distilleries, but it was written up in last year's 36 Hours in Porto so we figured we should give it a shot. We sat down for a fancy lunch and had some of their nice wine while trying to manage two young kids in a fancy place. Next time I think we'll get some take out! Lunches out are key though since we miss any opportunity for dinners out with restaurants opening after the kids are asleep (how to Southern European kids manage to stay up so late?!). 

A moment of calm during a chaotic lunch

From Graham's we finished up the walking tour, back along the promenade and to the lower level of the Pont Luis I bridge which took us down to the riverfront on the Porto side of the Douro.

It was a gorgeous mid 60s day (rare in February we were told) and the water front and every outdoor cafe were bumping. Both kids fell asleep on the walk back so we got bold and stopped in a Port shop also listed in the NYT article only to have both kids wake up as soon as the Port was poured. So we took turns trying the Port and handling Jude outside of the shop. Maybe it was our guilt for being those people, but we bought two delicious bottles anyway.

The Port shop and the adorable old lady keeping watch

All the Ports

And finally, one last push back to our apartment, up and down cobblestoned streets. We gave our new travel stroller a run for its money! Later Pete tells me "I am really old. My calves are so tight from all of the hills." Maybe less to do with age and more to do with our lack of hill training in the Netherlands!

Our street

To Graham's (in the distance) and back. Big day of sightseeing! 

Maeve at 9 Months

3/4 of a year. How did we get here!? We so love watching Maeve grow, albeit at a lightening pace. Her photo shoot was delayed a few days this month as she was suffering from a yucky virus that lead to an ear infection and then body rash. Girl can't catch a break. But she manages to smile through it all and be as easy going as a sick baby can be.

I didn't go back and read "Jude at 9 months" to avoid the inevitable comparisons, but can't wait to do so after I post this to see how the kiddos are alike and different.

Maeve has warmed to day care and is adored by the older kids who call her "Maevey." She refuses to drink the milk I bring in for her though and is only interested in eating like the older kids. She loves eating in general, preferring to feed herself instead of being spoon fed. I haven't found much that she doesn't like, but she loves toast fingers with avocado or cream cheese, cheese, pears, baby cereal with peanut butter, broccoli and peas. Her eating is especially impressive because she still doesn't have any teeth! I didn't get any until I was 13 months and I'm guessing she'll be a late teeth bloomer as well, which is fine by me since I'm still nursing.

Maeve sits like a champ, but that is about all she is doing! Daycare called her a "lazy princess." Just like the Dutch to tell it like it is. She doesn't like being on her belly (I think it causes her reflux) and while she has rolled in the past, she just won't do it anymore. She can spin herself 360 degrees, but can't move anywhere. I know Jude was the same way and then at exactly 1 year he started walking so I'm not too concerned about her. Though unlike Jude she doesn't bear any weight on her legs and is content to sit most of the day so walking may be a long ways off as well. It is a bonus to know that she'll be exactly where I left her and to delay baby proofing a bit longer!

Tummy time defeat

Much to my joy, her babbles consist of bababas, yayaya, and mamamas. Jude was a dadada babbler so its nice to hear "my name"this time. She's become more vocal lately when she is not happy about something and has a pretty sweet little screech. We are trying to teach her baby signs, but so far she just lifts up her arms to indicate that she is all done with meal time or wants to be picked up.

Her favorite toys are anything she can really sink her gums into and then those semi-obnoxious toys that make a lot of sounds. She loves swaying to the music. She is crazy ticklish and has the sweetest giggles. She's starting to take an interest in books and loves one right now with a peek a boo element. Her biggest source of entertainment is of course Jude. She winces when he gets close to her as if preparing herself for what he may do, but then she smiles so much when he talks to her or when we can convince him to sing to her. Jude alternates between trying to inflict harm and then telling her, "don't worry, Maevey. I'll protect you." He needs to get his story straight! They do bath time together now. So cute. Jude tests the limits of pouring water on her and wants to put everything on her head.

Oh so tolerant

Speaking of her head, Mohawk Maeve is nearly gone with the thickness weighing the hair down. It is sandy blonde and getting very long in the front. I'll need to start keeping it out of her eyes somehow. Her eyes are exactly what I imagined if I had superposed my hazel green eyes on top of Pete's blues. She has a base blue eye with an overlay of greenish hazel. I'm curious what they'll look like in a year's time, but I'm obsessed with them now! She hasn't had a well visit since 6 months and won't have one again until 11 months so I have no idea how big she is, but seems average to big. I haven't noticed any dimples yet, but they still could be buried somewhere in all that cheek!

On a good night she is up once at night, but we haven't had a good night in what seems like months with her never ending illnesses. I don't see any sleep training happening as long as she is constantly sick. She falls asleep so well by herself in her crib with her paci for naps and bedtime so there are tradeoffs.

Loves playing in her box (she normally isn't so swallowed by her toys in there!)

 

My friend, Amelia knit this sweater! Showing off her scratch marks from daycare. 

Loved the snow

Didn't love the goats!

Cozying up with Jude and friends

Snowy Weekend!

We had a legit snowstorm Friday evening through Sunday morning, with snow accumulating to around 3 inches! A big deal here and so beautiful to witness. This was our first snow fall with our very own patch of land to enjoy it (never mind that the patch is postage size!). Jude was home sick with me on Thursday and his fever was back Saturday so some time in the snow provided a much needed distraction from the Mickey Mouse marathon on the television. By Sunday we had serious cabin fever, but both kiddos were poorly and fussy so it was more snuggles on the couch. We didn't get into Amsterdam to see the city in all of her snowy glory, but other friend's facebook pictures helped paint the picture.

Our car went in for its annual emissions/safety check (APK) on Friday and after failing on three points, was essentially impounded until they can get the parts to do work on it this week. They had to report to the government that it failed inspection and it would have been illegal for us to drive it. We didn't have plans to use the car this weekend so I didn't think this would be a problem until I remembered that I had a meeting this morning with my tax guy far into the city. With no other alternative, I cycled in. Apart from the 32 degree temps, it was a pleasant 40 minutes ride and has me excited for more bike riding as the weather gets nicer, especially now that Maeve is ready. We hope to get her on the bike after crocus break next week! A big milestone in her Dutch childhood!

Snowy start Friday night

Good arm!

Snow lover!

Windmill along the Amstel on today's cycle

Not off to a good start...

It has been quiet on the blog front. My mind has been utterly preoccupied by the horrid beginning of Trump's presidency and of late, a very sick baby girl who is finally on the mend. Every morning I would get up, see my facebook feed of the latest atrocity, see it confirmed on the NYTimes (Aka Real News) and try not to spend the day wallowing in despair. We are coming on 3 weeks of our darling children waking up around 5 am (one, the other or both). So Pete and I are like ghosts in the night, taking turns resting when we can and high fiving on our way in and out of bed. We know this too shall pass, but when?!

We have found ourselves going out a lot more, dinners with friends, movies, birthday parties. It feels wonderful to be so social again. I am really feeling like my old, pre-kids self and loving it apart from the sleep deprivation! The social outings have also been therapeutic to what is going on in the US. It is impossible to be out and not have the Trump administration come up. We sat with a Dutchie, a Brit, a South African, and two Portuguese this weekend and discussed politics for hours. The world shares our fears. Big time! Yugely! And boy is the world responding, with the Dutch leading the way and making me so proud of our adopted country.

In one week, the BBC published an article on the Dutch raising the happiest children (not new news). Then there was the viral video of the Netherlands introducing itself to Donald Trump. America First, The Netherlands Second? So good was this video, that scores of other European countries have copied it and provided much needed laughs and smiles. I'm sure you have seen the video I'm talking about and if you haven't, or just need a little pick me up, go do so now! Who wants to come visit and go to the pony park?! And then, in response to Donald Trump putting back the global gag order, a Dutch minister announced the launch of a non-profit to raise money to ensure women around the world have access to contraception to avoid unwanted pregnancy: SHE DECIDES Of course She Decides! How could any man think they have the right to make these decisions!?

I think that it is all for now. I'll be back with stories, pics of the kids and travel blogs soon, I'm just still in a state of mourning.

https://youtu.be/ELD2AwFN9Nc

My Favorite Dutch Things

We were very fortunate in our first two years here to have so many visits from friends and family. At the time, we only planned to stay two years so people who were serious about visiting made it happen. And with each visit came the goodies from the US, the things we felt we could not live without. Lately, our visitors have just been family and in general are few and far between. So we are learning to live on what we can get here and to do away with our American dependency (take that, Trump!). Although I was very happy that an expat friend recently accepted my request to bring over some liquid infant Tylenol. Suppositories just aren't for everyone...

Now I tend to think about all of the things I love here that I will miss when the time comes to go back home. A mentality shift for sure.

So here are a few of my Dutch favs:

Cheap Flowers

As in the States, it is suggested to bring something to your hosts/hostess and flowers are one of the most common gifts. Due, I suppose, to the large number of growing fields and the world famous flower auction, flowers here are really cheap so this kind gesture does not have to break the bank. This beautiful bouquet above set us back 10 euros this weekend. At my local flower stall on Wednesday there was a promotion to buy 50 tulips for 5 euro! And now, to be really Dutch, you can strap your bouquet to your bike as you cycle to your friend's house. Or better yet, carry the bouquet in one hand while talking on your cell phone in the other. DUTCH!

Tosti (AKA a grilled cheese sandwich)

http://www.lekkerensimpel.com/slanke-tosti/

I adore grilled cheese (tostis), always have, and of course these are easy to come by/make in America, but what I particularly love is how you can find a super affordable tosti on almost any menu of your typical Dutch cafe. It will set you back 2.50-4 euros and is guaranteed to please Jude (and me) while we are out and about. No expensive kids' menus here, just simple, cheesy deliciousness.

Verse Muntthee (Fresh Mint Tea)

http://www.kortwijk.nl/verse-muntthee/

I'm not sure how this idea never came to me before. You make delicious mint tea by simply pouring hot water over fresh mint leaves. You can keep your own mint plant and whip this up easy peasy. Add a bit of honey- lekker (yummy)! This is also available at all cafes and is my drink of choice since I'm not a coffee drinker.

Tony's Chocolonely

A bar of this amazingness came in Pete's welcome basket from his ISA buddy when we first arrived. This is a sea salt caramel chocolate bar by Tony's Chocolonely. Apparently the company was started by a Dutch TV celeb (exec?) who was appalled to learn about the working conditions that go into other bars of chocolate. So these are yummy in your tummy and good for the soul. Semi sweet chocolate chips are not sold here (or at least not in a non-expat jacked-up price shop), so I just chop up a bar of this and add it to our cookies instead. When these go on sale at the grocery store for ~2 euros, I buy them by the dozen and keep them in with all of the baking goods. Time to make another batch now...

Cheap babysitters
This may be the thing I will miss the most some day. We pay our high school babysitters the going rate of between 5.50-6.50 euro an hour. The going rate!! A friend confided that they pay a Dutch student 3.50 an hour!! When I babysat in New York from 2007-2009, I was making $14 an hour and that was not considered much at the time. I shudder to think what the going rate is now in NYC. Why is this so cheap? Partly because that is the culture here. Also because there are strict labor laws that limit the minimum wage for young adults so that they are less incentivized to work and more likely to study (or at least that is the rationale). So the minimum wage for a 16 year old is much less than for a 20 year old, 21 year old, etc. And 5.50-6.50 is better than what the minimum wage would be.

No photo to show here, but image the smiling faces of our Portuguese, Spanish, Israeli, British and Czech high school baby sitters.