Friday, March 16, 2018

Real Alcazar de Sevilla

On our first afternoon in Seville, while the kids were sleeping, I got to tour the Royal Palace: Real Alcazar de Sevilla in peace. The sun had come out and I was in heaven!

The palace was built for Moorish Muslim Kings and had a lot similarities with the Alhambra. The upper levels are still for private use, making it the oldest royal palace in Europe still in use! Of course it has UNESCO status (still know what that means, Americans?! ;)). 

I don't have any other history to drop on you as I skipped the audio guide in favor of just soaking it all in. Here are the many pictures, though!


The side of the Cathedral adjacent the palace
The intricate facade in the middle.
Close up of the facade
Ok, I do have one piece of history: There was one room where Christopher Columbus had met with King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel after his second voyage. The painting below hangs in that room. It is the Virgen of the Navigators depicting the discovery of the New World. Christopher Columbus is the man in the beige cloak to the left of the Virgen. This is one of the earliest paintings of Columbus.

Tiled stairway





Mosaic ceiling
Details on a window shutter
Incredible carvings and ceiling
More carvings




I like tiles. Can you tell? 
Tapestries- recreations of the originals that burned.


Another impressive ceiling



As I mentioned, the gardens were closed due to the rain and strong winds. There were plenty of fronds lying around so I do agree it was a good call to do so, it was just sad not to get to see the famous gardens. I just got glimpses from within the palace walls. 



"Soaking" it All in in Sevilla

Our final stop in Spain was Seville (or is it Sevilla??) where we spent 2 days and 3 nights. I had found a two bedroom apartment just a few doors down from Seville's impressive cathedral and La Giralda bell tower. The son of the owner met us to show us the apartment... which was a one bedroom. I started to panic thinking I had not understood the description online. There was also supposed to be a crib, so I asked if maybe we were in the wrong apartment. He insisted we were in the correct place, calling his mother to confirm. After successfully connecting to the Wifi, I found my booking online and showed him the photos and description, which clearly did not resemble the place we were in. At that point, he became extremely apologetic, calling his mother again to tell her what was going on. The apartment was great, but a completely unprofessional and stressful start! 

La Giralda bell tower
We started fresh the next morning. Our tradition in France has carried over to Spain and Pete and Jude went to the bakery first thing for pastries. La panaderia instead of la boulangerie. Rain was forecast off and on all morning. We stopped to get our bearings and information at the tourist center off Plaza Virgen de los Reyes. 






Pete had found a science center, which seemed like a good rainy day activity. So that was our morning plan. 

First, we did a walking tour around the Jewish Quarter. Jude was excited to see his name on one street "Juderia." We stopped in Plaza de Santa Cruz to play a game of guard the crucifix. 





This part of the city was full of tangled narrow streets. Lots of tile work in the building entrance ways. Some streets so close together that they were referred to as "kissing streets." Jude got a kick out of that.



The biggest disappointment about our time in Seville was that the rain and strong winds forced the city to close and lock all city parks. I had imagined we would be spending lots of time in the sun in the playgrounds, but it was not meant to be. Even the famous gardens of the Real Alcazar palace were closed... and the entire Parque de Maria Lusia including the beautiful Plaza de Esapana. Big sad face. We still loved Seville so much though, so I think it just means we'll have to go back!

The alternate science museum was pretty good. Housed in a beautiful building and featuring some cool exhibits and bones!





Jude managed to stay awake on the way back to the apartment. We talked about getting lunch in the tapas restaurant at the bottom of our building. So Pete went back with sleeping Maeve and I got to have a lunch date with my little man. He expressed mixed feelings on camera about the date. 


Yummy and so cheap! 
While the kids took epic naps, making up for the busy day before in Cordoba, I headed out to tour the Real Alcazar de Seville- The Royal Palace. The sun had come out and I was in heaven, savoring the architecture and intricate tiles, mosaics and carvings in the palace. My next post will just be picture of that outing if you are interested to take a look. There was even time after I got back for Pete to go tour the Cathedral and walk to the top of La Giralda. I got to do this the following afternoon and I'll share those pictures in another post as well. 

Super well rested with some sun shinning, we went in search of a playground. The ones I knew about where behind locked garden doors, but we had passed a playground in a square on our taxi ride from the train station to our apartment the day before. We had a general sense of where it was and took off exploring. With the sun out, an ice cream stop was mandatory!



This trip was really good for our mama's girl. Lots of time with daddy and now she gets excited to see him instead of immediately asking for me.






This time the sightseeing trick "we're looking for a playground" was real! Finally, I stopped in a bodega and a kind gentleman gave me directions. The playground was in a small pedestrian plaza flanked with bars. We got drinks and took turns enjoying them while talking to the British couple at the table next to ours.




That night, we arranged for a babysitter through a former ISA family who lives in Seville. We feel very fortunate that Jude takes so easily to new people. He's had so many different babysitters in so many different countries!

My friend, Gia, takes groups of students from her school in Colorado to Southern Spain for cultural exchanges so she was able to give some recommendations in Seville. Including a tip to book at the Aire de Sevilla Ancient Baths. It was a very cool, candlelit spa in a former home with 5 different baths. We added on a massage, which was nice except for Pete's masseuse nearly fainting (It was while we were getting our feet massaged and Pete's feet are something special, but not that bad!). Back down in the lobby, there was live music. A very nice touch. Then we went out for dinner at 10:30 at a spot recommended in the frugal travelers trip to Seville last year.




La Giralda and people on their paseos