In Memory

As you may have noticed, I am usually better about updating the blog, especially when we have been on holiday and I have taken hundreds of photos.

This blog is about our expat life and raising our family here. We have had no regrets in our time here and really feel like this is where we are supposed to be for this chapter of our lives. There are times though, when things happen to shake our resolve. While in Portugal, we received the devastating news that Pete's dear cousin Emily passed away unexpectedly in Chicago. How we wished we were closer to family in that moment. We made the decision that while we both wanted to be there for the service this past weekend, Pete needed to be there so he left Portugal early on Friday morning and just returned home today. He was able to facetime me in to see relatives and to watch the service. Thank God for technology.

I have found myself at a loss for words. For her grieving family and for the blog. So I will borrow the words of Pete's aunt Jenny:

"Emily Durning:

Fierce, lovely, smart, passionate, an animal whisperer, a protector of children, a wonderful friend and big sister, a cracked-wide-open heart. She had aspirations to study neuroanatomy and wanted to be a doctor in Africa, saving lives. She wanted to save elephants and cheetahs. She wanted to make a difference in the world. That the world will not have her feels unjust, especially in light of how strongly she believed in justice. She did great things in this world and would have done so many more great things....that our world so desperately needs right now. Her spirit, her power, her empathy and compassion is obvious. Thank you for teaching me all of these things, Emma-Noodle. Emily Durning : Are you feeling the outpouring of love for you, beautiful one?"

Sharing fancy-free stories of us galavanting around Portugal seems trivial in times like these so I've stayed away. But I am certain that Emily, a fellow travel-lover, would want us to continue sharing our stories and our photos. We received the news while sitting on a sunny beach outside of Lisbon and I felt her there, in the gorgeous sunshine, watching us from above. We love you dear Emily. I hope to be as fearless as you one day. 

Porto, Portugal

We arrived on Saturday to Portugal after an uneventful flight to Porto (3 hours, 50 euro each). The flight was made infinitely better by the British/Dutch family in the row behind us with their 7 and 9 year old kids who helped entertain Jude when he got sick of the ipad. We were worried about Maeve on the flight having just found out she had a mild ear infection two days prior, but apart from fussing out of tiredness, she didn't seem bothered.

Porto was on our list in part for being the gateway to the Duoro wine region. A friend had traveled there a few years back and her pictures of the scenery were stunning. We only alloated 2 days in Porto before continuing onto Lisbon so we didn't make it out to that region, but are keeping it on our list for a future trip!

Always optimistic about the travels with the kiddos... 

Porto from our portal

We had a little time our first evening to walk around our neighborhood in search of a grocery store. We were struck by the hills, the grittiness, the tilemwork on buildings and the vibrancy of the city. Porto has not been extensively restored like many of the other European cities we have visited, but I liked it for that. It felt more real and the pop of color of the crumbling tiles were always a delight to see.

Jude must be wondering what these hills are all about!

Well we walked up hills and down hills, asked for directions and walked some more, but could not find a single grocery store! Lots of hip restaurants and bars, though. Maeve fell asleep in the stroller and Jude fell asleep in Pete's arms! Time to call it a day!

Our AirBnB host gave us a tip for a nice walking tour of Porto, which we followed the next day. We walked from our apartment to the Sao Bento train station, which is filled with the characteristic azulejos (tiles).

Outside the train station

Camera happy

We were pretty happy to have some warm sunshine on our faces! 

We checked out the Porto Cathedral where a Sunday morning mass was going on, scoped the views and then headed for the Ponte Luis I bridge, which was inspired by the Eiffel tower.

Later in the day we made it to Graham's- The Port distillery seen across the river in this photo.

There were great views from the bridge down to the red roofed buildings in the Vila Nova de Gaia district. This is where the Port distilleries are located, most with British names, which Pete tells me was from the strong Portuguese/British alliance. On the far side of the bridge was the entrance to an arial tramway that we took down to the waterfront. Along the way, we spied a playground along the promenade. Score!

Another one for the "Playgrounds of Europe" scrapbook

Graham's was located up a very steep hill and further from the other Port distilleries, but it was written up in last year's 36 Hours in Porto so we figured we should give it a shot. We sat down for a fancy lunch and had some of their nice wine while trying to manage two young kids in a fancy place. Next time I think we'll get some take out! Lunches out are key though since we miss any opportunity for dinners out with restaurants opening after the kids are asleep (how to Southern European kids manage to stay up so late?!). 

A moment of calm during a chaotic lunch

From Graham's we finished up the walking tour, back along the promenade and to the lower level of the Pont Luis I bridge which took us down to the riverfront on the Porto side of the Douro.

It was a gorgeous mid 60s day (rare in February we were told) and the water front and every outdoor cafe were bumping. Both kids fell asleep on the walk back so we got bold and stopped in a Port shop also listed in the NYT article only to have both kids wake up as soon as the Port was poured. So we took turns trying the Port and handling Jude outside of the shop. Maybe it was our guilt for being those people, but we bought two delicious bottles anyway.

The Port shop and the adorable old lady keeping watch

All the Ports

And finally, one last push back to our apartment, up and down cobblestoned streets. We gave our new travel stroller a run for its money! Later Pete tells me "I am really old. My calves are so tight from all of the hills." Maybe less to do with age and more to do with our lack of hill training in the Netherlands!

Our street

To Graham's (in the distance) and back. Big day of sightseeing!