German Christmas Markets Day 1: Dusseldorf

To get home for the holidays we booked frequent flier tickets with our American Airlines miles. The OneWorld Partner airline that flies out of Amsterdam is British Airways and imposes major taxes and fees on top of the miles needed (talk about no taxation without representation!).  So I did a lot of research (pre-Jude when I had that kind of time!) and found out that we could fly AirBerlin out of Dusseldorf, a 2 hour train ride away, for practically free. I'd always wanted to see the German Christmas markets so it was a no-brainer. The train ride on Monday was really easy. We booked a "family compartment" on the train and had a huge, 6-7 seater compartment to ourselves. Good thing because Jude recently discovered his "screech" and it is not pleasant on the ears!

Most of our European trips so far have involved AirBnB stays, which is great when traveling with friends/family and with the baby. That way there is somewhere to hang out after Jude goes to bed (when his travel crib doesn't fit in the bathroom that is :)). I couldn't find any good options in Dusseldorf so I reluctantly booked a hotel. There is something to be said for arriving to a destination and having a receptionist greet you and give you maps and local advice. We also had free reign of the breakfast room below so we could have dinner and relax while watching the baby monitor.

For our two day trip we had two things we wanted to do: check out the various Christmas markets (me) and sample the local beer (Pete). On day one we checked out 4 small markets in Dusseldorf. The best part was the Gluhwein (spiced, hot wine), served in souvenir mugs, unique to each individual market. You paid a 2-3 euro deposit for the mug and then it was up to you whether to keep it or return it. I held out and settled on one from Cologne the following day. The Gluhwein really made you feel all warm and fuzzy inside! In between perusing stalls at the markets, we sampled local specialties: Bratwurst and Reibekuchen (fried potato fritters). We also made stops at 3 local breweries to try the beer of Dusseldorf: Alt beer. Pete says he'll do another guest post so I'll let him tell you about that! He diligently took tasting notes to describe the beers. I, meanwhile, took note of how the servers (all male) treated Jude :) At two of the three, the servers went out of their way to chat with Jude, pick him up, play peek-a-boo with him and various other silly games. I for one won't remember what the beers tasted like, but will always remember that service!

Along the Rhein

Jude, starting his coaster collection early 

Enjoying Alt Beer

Chestnuts Roasting on an Open Fire 

Geheim Genootschap Arendsnest

Pete's 23 (?!) day winter vacation started Saturday (YEAH!). To celebrate, we went to a beer tasting at his favorite beer bar with a few of his co-workers. The Geheim Genootschap Arendsnest (GGA)- Secret tasting society of the Arendsnest- was hosting a blind beer tasting of 6 beers (2 American, 2 Dutch, 1 Belgian and 1 Irish) and we had to sample each, rate the quality and guess the country it was from. Some of us took it more seriously than others, but all had a good time! After the tasting, we were tempted to stay for more beers, but I really wanted some Dutch Apple Pie and as Pete had yet to go to Winkel 43 around the corner, I dragged him with. He was happy with the choice! 

Love the city at night

It was all in Dutch, but thankfully Pete's co-workers could translate!

"Beer Tasting- GGA- Netherlands agains the rest of the World"

Prost!

Apple Pie Selfie (Yes, there is pie behind that giant heap of slagroom)

Happy Holidays from chilly Amsterdam!

It's Beginning to Look a Lot like Christmas!

Now that Sinterklaas is over, the Christmas season has begun! Mostly, things are very similar to back home, which I find comforting. The canals near us were partially frozen over earlier this week and today we experienced some hail so winter is definitely here! Some impressions of the Dutch Christmas scene below.

Jude visiting Sinterklass at the mall on November 30th. Much more interested in the lady flirting with him.

Christmas trees

The Dutch wait until after Sinterklaas to buy their Christmas trees (December 6th). Since we are leaving our apartment on Monday to head to Germany and then home, we wanted to enjoy a tree for longer than 9 days. Our Dutch neighbor tipped me off to the local home and garden store selling trees starting at the end of November. We borrowed her car and went after work to pick one out. We were the only people shopping for a Christmas tree and had our pick! There were traditional, large trees with cut bases, but there were an equal number of smaller, potted trees. We opted for one of these. I've been told that they can be replanted at the end of the season. I love the idea, but we'll have to look into donating it for this purpose as we don't have a yard.

I have seen trees set up in restaurants and other's homes and must say that many look very Charlie Brown! Strange, sparse upper limbs. Must be the variety that is popular here!

Cousin Jessie came over to help decorate the tree. I had to leave my beloved ornament collection back at home, but have gotten a few already from our time here (Amsterdam, Bruges and Scotland ornaments to add to the collection). And Nana sent my favorite ornament of all- Baby's first Christmas!

Christmas lights

NYC has its fair share of beautiful Christmas lights and decorations, but there is something really special about all of the lights hanging in the quaint streets of Amsterdam. Each shopping area has its own unique set of lights and they are quite extravagant (hanging chandeliers in some!).

Christmas cheer

Back home, I would try to do at least one cultural Christmas event every season (Nutcracker, Messiah sing-a-long, Christmas concert). The Royal Concertegbrouw Orchestra had a number of concerts for the season and we chose the Jazz concert. I shouldn't have been surprised that the entire group of 20+ members were all white men. The conductor however, was an African-American man and the special guest was a cheese ball of an American male jazz singer. We weren't sure what music we would hear at a Dutch "Christmas Concert," but it was all the hits that we know and love. When the trombones hit their notes on "Hark! The Herald Angels Sing" I got teary-eyed on cue!

Red and Green Canal House Boats

Red and Green Cars

Christmas markets

While we will wait for our time in Germany to properly do the Christmas markets, I have seen a few set up around town selling goods from all over Europe. It reminds me of the scene from Love Actually where Jamie returns from France with French food items for his family. As charming as this idea is, bringing much home in addition to our luggage and the baby is not really an option. The cheese and sausage stalls are particularly enticing!

Rembrandtplein Christmas Market

Christmas baby

Jude at 8 months, chicken pox and all. He fared pretty well and the biggest/nastiest scab marks are on the back of his legs. I would say that he is in the clear of showing off that skin for a while, but we'll be in Miami in less than a week and the pool awaits!!

ISA's 50th Anniversary Celebration at the Van Gogh Museum

ISA celebrated its 50th anniversary this year. Our timing to join the school could not have been more perfect! The big event that we have known about and looked forward to for the past 9 months was held this Saturday night. The school rented out the Van Gogh museum for the staff and their partners for a private viewing of the museum, dinner and open bar. It was as great as it sounds. The only trouble was deciding whether to stay on the first floor where the food and drinks were served or venture up to see the art! We felt like we finally had a proper night on the town with after party drinks at the swanky Conservatorium Hotel bar. 

Van Gogh minus the mobs!

My favorites

A Day of Brussels Fun!

After our day in Bruges, Gia, Jude and I drove to Brussels and Pete took the train from Amsterdam after work. We had one day to spend in Brussels with a simple agenda- eat good food and drink good beer. Our Rick Steves guidebook mentioned a fishing village-esque neighborhood of Brussels that I thought would be fun to check out on our way downtown. As we passed the church flanking the neighborhood we saw the most amazing Christmas market set up in the square complete with Ferris Wheel. It was early on opening day so the vendors were just setting up. We passed the time in a cafe savoring coffee and chocolates and then had some real fun at the market. 

This moose head moved, talked and sang Christmas carols! Can I get one for our apartment??

We decided to ride the ferris wheel. A great way to see views of the city without climbing narrow stairways!!

Up, Up and Away

We made our way into the center of Brussels while Jude snoozed in the stroller. I didn't have any clue what we would come upon as we reached the Grand Place and was so blown away by the beauty that I teared up (and was instantly made fun of by Gia and Pete!). The gilded buildings were a sight to see! And every street surrounding the square was filled to the brim with Christmas market stalls and tons of people! Definitely put us in the Christmas spirit!

Gorgeous, no?!

The one place that Gia and Pete wanted to get to in Brussels was Cantillon, a lambic brewery that specializes in sour beers made with open fermentation (ie. no added yeast- the yeast comes from the open air). BTW- I just dictated that sentence from Pete. I am not that versed in brew talk! The two beer geeks went on the tour while I entertained Jude.

Open fermentation

Just a baby on a beer barrel

Rose de Gambrinas (Raspberry) Lambic Beer

Apart from the ferris wheel ride, my highlight of the day came from the main shopping street where a Salvation Army brass band was serenading shoppers with christmas carols. 

Gia and I made one final stop at a small traditional Belgian beer bar, but were unimpressed by the beers though the interior was charming. After returning home to put Jude to bed, Gia and I went out for a final meal together- Mussels and fries! It was a wonderful trip with a dear friend!